Beatific, Bemusing, Beautiful Bali

The incense sweet scent sifting slowly through the warm, moist, enveloping air of Bali upon my arrival made it very clear that I was not in Thailand anymore. Irritable after dealing with the hassle of procuring a visa upon arrival, and frustrated when unable to find my friends that had come to greet me, I did not enter Bali in anything close to an attitude of gratitude. Not unlike the toxins pouring from my pores my bad attitude seemed to permeate the air around me. My scowling brow, overheated skin, and sharp manner did not make a pretty sight. When I gave up being such a bitch my sight started to clear, my manner started to cool, and it finally dawned on me where I was. Beatific, bemusing, bejeweled, bewildering, but above all beautiful Bali!

Checking my ego at the exit terminal, I let myself surrender to Bali, and all its many gifts. I found myself soon surrounded by the wonderful women I had come to join on this amazing adventure, and we were off. First stop? The bizarre bazaar. The bazaar that our hired driver drove us to was set off from the many tourist destinations, and the locals were hungry for business. We found ourselves snaking through the overcrowded aisles with an entourage of local artisans peddling their wares at our heels. At this point I found myself hungry, tired, and culture shocked. We eventually made our way back to the car where I proceeded to pass out. Exhausted, me? Never.

My frazzled nerves and shell shocked mind was soon soothed and centered by the waves crashing to the shore of the white sand beach we lunched at. If I have learned anything in Thailand, it is that water brings me back to my personal center every time. If I am upset, angry, frustrated, whiny, bitchy, whatever—all I need is to get myself to a body of water (ocean, lake, or pool—they all work wonders on my mind, and spirit). It is a great tool to know what my triggers are, it is a gift to know what gets me back to center. After some time ocean-side, a large Bintang, and some Beef Rendang I was golden—a nap as we headed to Ubud didn’t hurt either.

How do I describe Ubud? The only close comparison I have would be Asheville. The winding, hilly streets of this little town are covered in holistic healing spas, shops filled with beautiful jewelry from the local artisans, and more art than you could shake a stick at. Ubud is like Asheville, only smack dab in the middle of Bali—so basically heaven for this curvy, artsy, spiritually minded mama. Our hotel, the Champlung Sari Hotel, was literally a stone’s throw from Monkey Forest—in fact on our third day taking breakfast at the pool side verandah I was joined by three monkeys who were hoping for a little bite of the delicious breakfast buffet. Our room was spacious, with a gorgeous marble bathroom (including a large tub and separate shower), and a little private garden right off our front patio. The grounds were even more beautiful with lush foliage, Balinese architecture, and a wonderful infinity pool. I can already see that my adjectives are a bit lacking, but how many ways can you really say beautiful? Okay, so according to my word processor’s thesaurus there are quite a few ways I am not employing. You’ll just have to forgive me for this.

We found when booking our trip that we would be in Bali at the same time as the Bali Spirit Festival, and although I have to admit that at first I balked (if not for the price of the entire festival, than at the line-up that I had never heard of for the evening music festival), I will say that I was soon schooled. Our first night at the festival started with a two for one drink happy hour special, and god bless them they had Mojitos. No, of course I didn’t take advantage of that—I only had one or two—I think. What can I say of the talent that was featured at this festival? I can tell you that the crunchy, granola-lovin’, hippy fest I was expecting was not what I got—unless I have managed to turn into a crunchy, granola-lovin’ hippy myself—but I seriously doubt it. Hands down the most amazing, surprising, and soul moving music that was featured in the line-up would have to be Delhi 2 Dublin. I don’t have words to describe how amazing this ensemble really is, so I will let their promo video speak fro them. You be the judge.

Delhi 2 Dublin

The rest of my time in Ubud, when I wasn’t busy shakin’ it at night (super grateful for the world beats music DJ set) was spent shopping for a few really beautiful pieces—sorry to say I was packing light with just my weekend/hiker’s backpack so I couldn’t bring back very much. I did procure a gorgeous large silver ring inlaid with mother of pearl, a few sets of gorgeously carved earrings for my modestly stretched ears, a couple of pieces of silk clothing, a moonstone pendant, a couple of beautifully carved hair pins, a delicately carved silver bangle, and a couple of pairs of beautifully carved earrings for some larger stretched lobes that I know could use them. We also wasted a few hours at one of the local healing spas where I received a massage, scrub, moisturizing mask, floral bath, and pedicure (all for about US 20). Oh, and the food! I think my favorite meal in Ubud would have been at Ibo Uku where we enjoyed the local favorite suckling pig—scrumptious!!!

On my fourth day in Bali we departed Ubud, and I can tell you that I was very sad tobe leaving so soon. I will be back. Our driver met us early in the day, and we headed for the village of Takasurin where much of my favorite jewelry is made by local artisans. The ride there was simply stunning, mostly blue skies, the greenest fields and rice terraces you could possibly imagine, and so quiet. We began our adventure that day at Gungkawi, a sacred site of the Bali people, which was just absolutely stunning. A couple hundred steps (or more) leads you into the temple structure where gorgeous carvings, beautiful rushing waterfalls, and some of the most serene setting awaits you. I was moved, transfixed, and inspired. Ultimately I had another one of those moments of intense gratitude that shakes tears from me. However, the walk back up those stairs is no joke—and I was shaking when I got to the top—but for different reasons. We headed up to Mtn. Batur after leaving Takasurin. The road was filled with local arts and crafts there and back that I seriously could have stopped to explore for hours. As it turns out this is the wholesale route, and the goods are only for sale en masse.

It was pouring when we arrived at Mtn. Batur, which is actually a dormant volcano. Our driver had arranged for us to eat at the buffet overlooking the volcano. Once we had settled the rain, and our view had cleared. It was absolutely amazing to be eating a delicious meal overlooking my first glimpse of a volcano. The view was simply amazing, but so was the food! I believe that I may have had my first taste of ear as well. Truly the closest I have come to an Andrew Zimmern (a personal favorite) moment since I arrived in Southeast Asia. The satay was really amazing though. I believe that when most Americans think of satay it is rather bland meat on a stick with an equally bland peanut sauce on the side. Let’s just say that your taste buds have not even come close to true Balinese satay. Spicy, full of flavor, savory, somewhat sweet, complex, and amazing Balinese satay, you just have to try it to know what it really can be like. I plan to take a cooking class when I return to Bali, and if you ask really nicely I might just make it for you. I fully intend to be versed in several different Asian cuisines when I finally make my way back to the North American continent.

We arrived, after only a little searching, at an amazing five star hotel (which the Lonely Planet had listed as midrange—if this was midrange I have never seen what they are considering as upscale). The hotel lobby was jam packed with quirky sculpture, and as we soon found out, so were the grounds. We ended up at the Kamala Pantai Hotel in Legian (although we were only a stone’s throw from Seminyok). Again, the hotel room was spacious, and the bathroom beautiful with a separate shower and bathtub—not to mention the large porch that overlooked the stunning grounds. The curved lanes that twisted and turned around the large property were immaculately groomed with an array of lush, tropical foliage, and an assorted mix of hidden statues around every bend. The hotel’s two pools both boasted an assortment of sculpture, but true to form it was the swim up bar I got really excited about (lame, but oh so true). We ended our evening with live music, and amazingly good Italian food at the hotel’s open air restaurant (that boasted a real wood burning stove for their mouth watering hand made pizzas). The next 36 hours were spent with me budging very little from our wonderful digs. What can I say? Mass hordes of tipsy tourists, streets lined with t-shirts, and assorted other crap just doesn’t appeal to me. For now I am holding my review of Balinese beaches since I did not make it to Ahmed, but instead spent my time at the far more populated and polluted Kuta and Legian. I will leave you with a recipe that I am hoping gets you close to the amazing satay that this island does so well.

Enjoy,

The Epicurious Gypsy

Ingredients:
300 gr minced chicken
5 tbsp spice mixture (see recipe for this below)
5 lime leaves shredded
1/2 cup grated coconut
About 3 tbsp fried shallots
1 tblsp palm sugar
1/2 tsp salt
wooden chopsticks
Mix the coconut, spice mixture, palm sugar, fried shallots, salt and lime leaves together until all ingredients are well and evenly mixed. Add the chicken and knead the mixture together. Add some water or cocounut milk if it is too dry. Take a tablespoon if the mixture and wrap it round a wooden chopstick. Do this until all the chicken mixture is used up. Then grill until golden brown. Serve with stay sauce.
Balinese Spice Mixture
1 tsp whole black pepper
3 cloves garlic
1/2 an onion or 5 shallots
1 large red chilli with seeds removed
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp sesame seeds
2-3 candlenuts
1 tsp coriander seeds
2 tbsp tumeric
5 tbsp galangal
3 tsp kencur
1 1/2 tbsp ginger
1/4 cup water (used to make it more pastey if too dry)
Grind all the ingredients into a fine paste using a mortar and pestle. If you don’t have one, then use ground black pepper, ground coriander seeds etc. Then place all ingredients in a blender. Heat some oil in a wok and fry until golden yellow in color. Cool before using

Epically Curious

My voice has been quiet as of late. This adventure has taken twists and turns that I could not have perceived when I began my journey. I imagined that this would be a one year travel adventure in which I would experience the culture, beauty, and food (of course) of many different spots within Thailand, and if I was lucky a few places outside of the country as well. I had no clue, nor could I have had any idea, of what was in store for me. I think that in many ways I still have no clue of what lies ahead of me. As this is starting to feel like a lil’ bit of mental masturbation, let me get to the point—in the past week I have signed a contract with a school that now owns me for the next couple of years. Due to the length of the contract by the time I complete my agreement I will have been living in Thailand for nearly three years. There is certainly nothing vacation-esque about spending three years living in Asia. I chose Thailand for many different reasons: the climate, the beautiful architecture, the gorgeous geographical highlights, the rich history, and the culture. Now I am starting to think that, not unlike many things in my life, Thailand has chosen me.

I am not certain why Thailand has chosen me, or what I am to learn here. I do know that I have already grown considerably, and that I have a long way to go.  This brings me to the purpose of this post, where do I go from here? This blog was set up to document my adventures, and all of the strange and wonderful culture and food that I could soak up in a year. So now what? The purpose of my trip has changed, does that mean that the purpose of this blog must change with it? I certainly think so. So do I become the Epically Curious Gypsy? Maybe I don’t need to define it today. Maybe I have some time to decide.

In the meantime I have many new adventures that will be coming your way, and which I am very excited about. I will be traveling to Bali for a quick five day jaunt to explore a bit of the island, its culture, and its attraction to so many foreigners. I will be traveling with a few of my favorite ladies to Ubud, and a spot we haven’t quite chosen yet. We will be in Ubud, which is near the center of the island, for about three days. During that time we will be enjoying the many sights, sounds, and sensations that is the Bali Spirit Festival. The Bali Spirit festival is five days of music, yoga, and sacred dance and movement. Of course I am not on an unlimited budget, so I will not be attending the daytime events as I could not afford nearly 300 US for that, which will allow me the opportunity to take day trips with Ubud as my home base. I am looking at this as a scouting trip of sorts. You see, arriving in Bali from Thailand is rather cheap, and I just know that this will not be my last trip.

My next adventure after that takes me to India. India is a place that I have been fascinated with since I was a little girl. I can not express sufficiently the sheer wonder I am experiencing over making my way there. I will be in India for nearly two weeks. During our stay in India we will be traveling to New Dehli, Jaipur, Agra, Gwalior, and Khajuraho. The route we are taking is one of the most popular with tourists as all of those cities have some of the most beautiful structures in India—including the Taj Mahal. I am also saving my pennies as I just know that I will go a little shop happy in India. I have been purchasing imports from there since I was a teenager, so you can imagine what actually being there will do to me. Yikes! Have I mentioned that I am going with a back pack, and coming back with a backpack and duffel or two? I haven’t? Hmmm. I promise copious food pictures will be taken there, and more than a few recipes will be shared. Until then, I will leave you with a thought that has been rattling around in my dome for quite a while now—if you could go anywhere in the world, why wouldn’t you?

The Epicurious Gypsy

The Tale of Two Thai Cities

Having promised to several teacher friends living in various small towns scattered piece-meal across the countryside that I would visit, I made my way this past weekend to Dan Chang. This is a small and sleepy town just a few short hours west of Bangkok on your way to the Myanmar border. Now, dear readers (reader count=10, and thank you random lurker for waving hello last post), those who know me know that I am no small town girl. Why the very thought of settling in a city devoid of certain necessities would be unheard of for this big city mama (think more than one coffee shop, a club with live music, and another with a great DJ where I can dance, and no lack of entertainment options come the weekend—yes, these are all necessities, don’t judge). So I was expecting to have a quiet, restful weekend where I would possibly enjoy a beer under the eaves of a quiet porch on a dusty country road. However, leave it to Thailand to once again completely surprise me.

After only a few minutes of arriving in Dan Chang it was clear that my hosts had put some thought into our weekend festivities, never mind that I was looking for a good little bit of rest and relaxation. We walked from my drop off point across and down the “city” streets of Dan Chang to a restaurant on the other side town. Mind you this took all of about fifteen minutes. We ended up at one of those establishments that are so common in Thailand: part street side restaurant, part local hang out and congregation area, and part private home. And all of this crammed into a space smaller than my tiny studio apartment in Bangkok. However, as is indicative of many of these places—the food was quite good, and certainly fresh.

We were soon joined by a gracious couple that I had heard much about (all wonderful things by the way), but was only just meeting. They proved to be just as delightful (and down to earth) as many had said as the day wore on. We were dropped soon after lunch across from the town’s local temple at what looked to be part junk shop, and part auto maintenance facility where after a little bartering we rented a car for the next twenty-four hours. The addition of the car, in a sleepy country town completely lacking in all of the blessings of public transit that I am so used to, made for ease of transit and what would be a whirlwind twenty-four hours.

We were off as soon as the deal was bartered to the Sam Chook 100 year old market. One could easily lose themselves in the winding streets of this little market, and we most likely would have had it not been for the fact that we arrived so close to closing. However, we found plenty to entertain ourselves, and I would recommend heading there should you want a little trip out of Bangkok. You can find more information here:  http://tweetyourselfthai.wordpress.com/2010/09/13/sam-chook-100-year-market-a-little-history/

However, the highlight of my trip was stumbling across this beautiful silver cuff. It was a rather ornate, but earthy piece that spanned at least a couple of inches wide in intricate duplication of little vines and leaves. The vines and leaves were interspersed with the most gorgeous off-white natural stones, and immediately I was drooling. I have been practicing my bartering skills since coming to this country, and was soon making the “that’s a little pricey” face (the one that leads to the shop owner and I going back and forth until we have settled on a price we both like. It is customary for the proprietor to supply the customer with more information that will lure the hard earned baht out of your pocket, and into their hands. However, telling me that those gorgeous stones were actually ivory made me turn on my heel, and immediately walk out with a muttered, “Mai ow, kha” (I don’t want). Ivory! Nope, nu-uh, I don’t think so. There are simply a few things that regardless of how okay that seems to be in Thailand I will never get used to, and I am certainly not planning to bring any home.

The rest of the night was spent wandering from one place to the next, until we ended up at the local fair. I am not certain why those small traveling fairs are so alike from one country to the next, but certainly this one did not disappoint. There was the usual bass thumping, loud music that you can’t quite distinguish since the sound system is so terrible. Carnival rides dotted the hay strewn area—a tilt-a-whirl here, an octopus there. The games were just as similar as well, and I did not miss my opportunity to shoot a few pellets at some meanly snarling stuffed animals. Three of which I ended bringing down, thank you very much! I am quite the hunter, no? Did I mention that this whole thing was on the town’s temple grounds? I didn’t? Hmmm. Let’s just say that the peaceful, smiling Buddhas did a wonderful job of reminding me that I was most certainly not in Kansas anymore.

The next day was packed again, but this time with some amazing food. I have found a Thai dish that I absolutely adore, but which I have never seen in any Thai restaurant in the states, and it is a version of this that I leave you with.

Enjoy,

The Epicurious Gypsy

Pla-muk tod Gatiem

100 gms Squid

4 Garlic Cloves

1 Teaspoon White Pepper

2 Tablespoons Light Soy sauce

1 Tablespoon Fish Sauce

100 ml Oil (something light like Canola)

Preparation

1. Cut the squid like squares clean the inside of the squid carefully, remove the beak if it is still present.

2. Score the squid with diagonal criss-cross scoring, this will make it more tender and less chewy once cooked.

3. Pound the garlic in a Thai mortar and mix with squid, light soy sauce and fish sauce.

4. Put oil into a frying pan over a medium heat.

5. Add the squid mixture into the pan and cook for 3 minutes.

6. If you overcook squid it becomes chewy, so only light, short cooking is necessary.

Serve With

Fragrant Rice

Kanchanaburi Cooking Class

Dear readers (reader count = 10, and just a few lurkers…you could wave hello, jus’ sayin’), I have made a commitment to give my honest view of the cultures that I find myself immersed in. I would have to say that there is much that I have not touched on that will be revealed in time. However, let me start by discussing the unique philosophy of Thai food. The population of Thailand is 95% Buddhist, and the central tenant of balance runs through all parts of their lives. This is especially true of their food. There are four cornerstones to all Thai dishes, and although I had come here knowing this I did not fully understand it until this past weekend.

The young teacher with an old soul, who I find I have shared the most with here, and I took ourselves on a girl’s get away weekend to cooking school in Kanchanaburi. Granted there are more than a handful of cooking schools here in Bangkok. In fact, I am blessed to live in a city where there is no lack of things to do (unless of course you’re an old goth-industrial-synthpop enamored lady with a love of dance…in which case you might just be sh….well, you get the idea). However, after having spent the entire month of January in Bangkok, and getting a nice little case of black lung from all of the smog, we needed a bit of a break from the city. Thailand has an amazingly developed transportation system, and there are any number of ways to get from Bangkok to just about anywhere you want (for the right price). We ended up taking one of the minivan services that can be picked up from any number of locations around Bangkok, and arriving in Kanchanaburi a few short hours later. Have I mentioned that there seems to be a general lack of speed limits here? And that many vehicles are outfitted with seven speeds, and nitrous tanks? No? Hmm. We made our way to Apple & Noi’s Retreat which was located just out of town, and across the River Kwaire. We arrived, checked in, and as it was well after dark on a Friday night soon found ourselves nestled on mattresses softer than anything I had slept on in months.  Have I mentioned that most Thai beds creak like a wooden door when you lay down? No? Hmm.

I awoke early, the bane of keeping up with my weekly teacher schedule, and after being properly refreshed wandered down to snap a few photos in the early morning light.

Yes, it really was this peaceful.

I made my way down to the retreat’s river side open air restaurant, and slowly sipped my way through my favorite Boston style cup of joe to full alertness. I had not been sitting long when I was brought a menu, which as I do not often wake up with raging hunger I declined, only to discover that this was how I would be choosing the four menu items that I would be cooking that day. The heady mix of caffeine induced alertness, and excitement makes me quite the bouncy girl. My companion dragged herself down to join me at the table, and after finishing her first cup of coffee finally put two words together. We were soon joined by the rest of our cooking companions for the day, and our fearless leader Noi. Noi’s sharp mind and wit were quickly revealed, and I knew that this would come to be a day to remember when she reminded us in perfect English to continue smiling through the market (especially the more carnivorous sections) as we were merely weekend visitors, but she had to live with the people in her little town. I had mentally armed myself knowing that I would not be visiting anything close to our American supermarkets where every piece of meat is well washed, and shrink wrapped. However, I had not put quite enough forethought into my packing, and noticed as we were headed to the market that maybe I should have packed something other than my $2 flip flops.

The market was not anything truly new to me as I have now been in this country four months. However, given that I have no kitchen in my little studio in Bangkok (which is not unusual), I have little reason to buy food at markets. Noi proved to be even more knowledgeable than she had first seemed, and I learned much wandering around the market. As with anything there comes a point where you reach saturation, and can’t seem to take in any more information. This happened as we were headed (ha, headed) into the meats section of the market. I remembered to smile, and nod, but I am fairly certain that my eyes were wide as saucers at some of the things that I was snapping photos of as I went along.

You didn’t think I would spare you now did you? Heavens no.

After making our way back to the retreat, we donned our aprons, and watched attentively as Noi demonstrated the cooking process of our first course. We had come together as a group, and voted to make Pad Thai and Labb Gai. We carefully watched, and listened as Noi took us through the process of fully realizing each recipe—some of us taking notes, and others snapping pictures. We then paired up, and began our cooking. The majority of the participants added the tiniest amount of dried chili flake, but my companion and I are built with similar capacities for spice. Meaning that when the time came for the group to try other’s dishes ours were given a surreptitious nod, and nothing more. Suffice it to say, we both found ours to be pleasantly spicy. The instructors went around tasting everyone’s and actually came away from ours remarking on how spicy they were, and giving us an approving look.

My first homemade Pad Thai (left), and Labb Gai (right).

By the end of the first course we were well sated, and wondering how we would be able to finish our second course. However, first came the cooking. For our main course (as Labb Gai is considered a salad, and Pad Thai is considered a started course) we had opted to make Gai Panang and Tom Yum Gai. Now, what is important to know about the various curry dishes is that they vary based on the various curries one can use (yellow, red, and green—can you guess which one is the hottest?). Gai Panang is made with red curry, and is absolutely delicious. Again, we are not afraid of spice, and found ourselves having to stay our heavy hands in favor of actually not overwhelming the dish. Want to take a guess at how many tried our Gai Panang? Yep, that would be correct. Finally, we finished with Tom Yum Gai, which is a fabulous dish for clearing the body of any illness as it is chock full of many natural antioxidants. And now that I know how to make this from scratch, don’t expect anything else if you ask me to bring you soup when you are sick. The majority of these dishes we were unable to finish until much later that night, as we had stuffed ourselves on Pad Thai and Labb Gai.

My first homemade Gai Panang (left), and Tom Yum Gai (right).

I mentioned earlier that the central tenant of balance was quite apparent in their food, and I will share this little secret with you before leaving you with a recipe. The four standard flavors of any Thai dish (as many Thai enthusiasts know) are sweet, salty, spicy, and sour. However, until I cooked under the tutelage of a Thai woman I had no idea how these actually worked. The key is that the salty is balanced by the sour, and vice versa. So you guessed it, that means that the spicy is balanced by the sweet. Trust me, next time you make a dish a little too salty, try adding just a little bit of lime or lemon juice and see what happens. As it is cold season in the states, I will leave you with the recipe for Tom Yum Gai and wish you good health and happy eating.

Enjoy,

The Epicurous Gypsy

Ingredients

       8 oz chicken breast, cut into 1 1/2 inch pieces (with or without bone) or shrimp

       4-5 kaffir lime leaves

       2-3 pieces galangal, slices

       1 1/2 cup staw mushroom, halved

       4 Tablespoons Thai fish sauce

       3 cups water

       1 stalk lemon grass, cut into 2" long pieces

       2 Tablespoons lime juice

       1 Tablespoon Thai chili pepper, chopped

Preparation

       Bring water to boil in a medium-sized pot over high heat. Add kaffir lime leaves, galangal and lemon grass. Cook for 2 minutes.

       Add straw mushrooms. Cook for a few minutes more. Add chicken. Do not stir. Cook for 5 minutes or less until the chicken is cooked through - do not overcook.

       Remove from heat. Season to taste with fish sauce, lime juice and chili peppers. Serve immediately with steamed jasmine rice.

"One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple." ~Jack Kerouc

Dear readers (reader count=10, and just a few others…hello others), let me start by apologizing for my complete lack of attention to this blog. Having said that, please know that this will be the very last apology you will receive from these nimble fingers (get your minds out of the gutter!). Yes, the fingers are nimble, and wouldn’t you just love to know how nimble they are? However, I must say that I would be referring to my rather ambidextrous nature (again pull your minds out of the gutter). I have every desire to write on a daily basis. I have dreams of throwing myself into my work in some beautiful beach side bungalow where nothing more is demanded of me than my writing. However, until I hit it big in the lottery, which I don’t play, or until I am swept off my feet by some handsome billionaire who loves moody and artistic women…yeah, well you see my dilemma. In the meantime you will just have to be a wee bit patient with me. Between the teaching, the masters studies, and the traveling I am not left a great deal of time for writing. But then again, maybe I am just making excuses.

As a young, not well traveled, and inexperienced teen I read voraciously from writers who focused on their life and travel experiences. However, there was one book in particular that would be cracked open every spring as the itch to travel would begin in my toes and travel up my spine. Let’s just say that this particular novel left me with romantic visions of traveling cross-country by train. The prose harping on the rolling country side, and the sense of the infinite that it inspired would be an unrequited lust until I venture halfway across the world. It was here in this rich and verdant environment that I first experienced a day long train trip. I had experienced trains before, but in comparison that first train trip did little to inspire or sate my desire. It was here, coming from the dusty little town of Surin, and heading for the next nine hours back to Bangkok that I was officially indoctrinated to the pleasure of train travel. Watching the hills, lakes, dusty little towns, and gorgeous temples roll by that I found myself transported back to the pages that my sixteen year old self would sop up in pleasure. There are not sufficient words to describe the beauty that rolled by minute by minute on that train. Maybe it was traveling through one of the country’s most beautiful parks, maybe it was the fireworks that sang through the air illuminating the night like so many multi-colored angels, but I would have to say that it truly may just come down to the company I kept that day.

I have been blessed to meet a multitude of characters since I first stepped off that plane. You see, and here I must stop to disclose some vital information, I came to Thailand to deal with my past-namely my divorce. Make all of the Eat, Pray, Love jokes you’d like here, but sadly it is true. I had to come half way around the world to meet myself. Let me say that the first few months have been less than pleasant in more moments than I would like to admit to.  It has been almost a year now since the final separation, and I am grateful every single day to have been set free. My marriage taught me a lot, about myself, about life, but mostly about relationships. It was tough, and a lot of work, and there were some moments that were pure magic, but I am glad that it is over. I believed, when I married him, that I had met my match. I know now that I simply didn’t know what I was capable of. Having said all of that (and wow talk about full disclosure), I must say that I was not so easy to be around my first few months here. I can feel the changes in me, and I know that I am pulling out of it. There were a few bright souls who (for whatever their reasons) chose to see past my disarray. It is for these folks that I say thank you. Thank you for seeing past all of my bullshit, and loving me for me. You showed compassion, kindness, and humor when all of mine had run out. So thank you S for being a lifeline and go to in Bangkok when I was not quite standing on my own. Thank you S and K for showing me the best parts of yourself, and what I aspire to express on a daily basis. Thank you K for getting me from that very first weekend, and being so patient with my little princess ass. Thank you C for reminding me of home, and being a bright spot here in Thailand. Thank you G and N for your constant love of life and fun, and for keeping me light. My circle here is expanding daily, and I am grateful for the best parts of myself that are being revealed a little bit every day.

"Travel only with thy equals or thy betters; if there are none, travel alone." -The Dhammapada

Sincerely,

The Epicurious Gypsy

p.s.: I have included a picture below of the strangest snack I have had on a train.

The Temple of the Dawn and a little Mutton Korma on the side

Every day in Bangkok is an adventure for this wander lust lady. From venturing down the city and side streets of my local neighborhood to stumbling across glimpses of the ancient world; Thailand does not disappoint. I came to this foreign land with the intention of expanding my mind, and centering my spirit. Every morning I awake with a lack of expectation of what the day will bring, save one thing—lessons. I am constantly learning. Language, culture, life, but mostly I am learning about myself. I am learning what I am capable of—both good and bad. It is truly moment to moment here, and some moments are better than others. Some moments are bright, shining stars on my horizon that make everything else pale in comparison. Some moments stir my soul and fill me with beatific gratitude. I was blessed to be awash with one of these moments quite recently.

A Saturday morning means sleeping in for those of us who are blessed enough to do the weekly grind. I awoke this particular Saturday a little early and very excited about the day to come. Another traveling teacher and I made our way down to our local pier of the Chao Phrya. The Chao Phrya, for those of you who don’t know, is the river that separates Bangkok from Thonburi. Think of them like the twin cities, you know…Minneapolis and St. Paul? Didn’t know I was a geography teacher, did you? After looking at the maps, and figuring out what pier we were headed to we hopped on one of the river taxis. Now, just to be clear, they are called that, but it is a little bit more like a river bus. You tell the attendant what pier you are headed to, and hand over the appropriate baht. We made our way down the Chao Phrya, and headed to the pier that would take us to the river ferry to Wat Arun. I hadn’t done any shopping since arriving in Thailand. However, the pier turned out to be one tempting vendor stall after another. You see, dear reader (reader count=8, and just a few others…hello others!), I am not tempted to spend my baht on kitschy I <3 BKK t-shirts, or even the cooler variety of printed tees with gorgeous scrolling, and spiraling motifs. I don’t feel the need to don fisherman pants, and in fact the majority of the clothing here isn’t meant for these Italian curves. But the tribal masks, wood carvings, and general display of all things foreign and beautifully strange…ah, these are truly temptations for me. I refrained from diving in and hording as many of these little treasures as I could. At least for now, and centered my sights on the beauty of Wat Arun.

This breath taking temple is a mix of Thai, Indian, and Chinese influence. In the Khmer style, this temple is approached from the pier. Immediately one is greeted by large, shell and porcelain covered spirit houses, and towering, grimacing, tile-armor covered guardian demons. A lush, verdant path leads to the main gate of Wat Arun. On either side of this entrance are prayer houses. These are functioning buildings of glowing white from which devout Buddhists emerge with the flow of serenity around them. For a small donation, anyone can enter and receive a blessing or meditate. These buildings were a curiosity to me, and certainly received my respect. Although I chose to show my respect by not entering, and instead observing from a respectful distance as I know little about Buddhism outside of high school required reading of Herman Hesse. And truthfully, I know myself well enough to know that I am far to fond of Bacchanalian reverie to find myself following a spiritually centered, middle path professing, Eastern spirituality. That being said, I do plan to immerse myself in meditative peace and quiet very soon, if only for a weekend.

I proceeded through the main gate of Wat Arun, and stood in awe of the soaring, spiritual spectacle before me. The main tower, or central prang, of Wat Arun is surrounded by four smaller “satellite” prangs. The central prang is unusual in that it can be climbed. There are three sets of stairs that lead to the top of the central prang. The last two sets of stairs are somewhat steep, and immediately I was reminded of a trip a few years back to the Mayan ruins at Chacchoben. On this particular trip I allowed myself to be talked out of climbing the stairs to the top of one of the most beautiful temples that I have seen yet. I carried away with me that day the beauty, and spiritual splendor of those ruins, but also regret. It would take me a few more years of allowing myself to be held back and doubted before I moved past this. On this particular day, as the sun broke through the clouds, I realized that there was no one there left to doubt me, or to hold me back. I climbed those stairs, stopping at every terrace, and circling around each level so that I could take it all in. In the midst of this I was filled with so much gratitude for the freedom to do this, and moved to tears that words filled my head, and this is what I wrote, “Rhythmic chanting fills the air amidst the ruins of Wat Arun (The Temple of the Golden Dawn). On this overcast day the temple seems to glow, and amidst the chaos of the city of Bangkok—there is peace here. I moved to tears by the beauty of it all, and simply awed that the Universe has seen fit to bring me here.”

What more can I tell you all of Wat Arun? There are no words for the shift in me that place brought this day. I can only say that Thailand is already transforming me.

We left Wat Arun, and headed back across the river. Making our way down the river a couple of piers, left us at the Memorial Bridge and from here we made our way to Praharat—Little India. Now, just so you know, I love Thai food. There are a couple of different Thai restaurants in Atlanta, oh Atlanta…I miss you so, that don’t require a look at the menu. I always seem to get something wonderful, and love everything I’ve had. However, that being said, having it morning, noon, and night for weeks, and what will eventually be months…well, any of you that may have worked for an extended period at a restaurant knows what I am about to say—eventually you come to take the food for granted, and long for anything but the food you once loved so much. I seem to be getting something other than rice and whatever comes on top of the rice at least once a week. I had been craving what I knew would be the best Indian food I had savored in my life since I first realized that there was a Little India in Bangkok. I was not disappointed. Everything that I had was amazing, but certainly no one dish more so than the recipe below.

Enjoy,

The Epicurious Gypsy

 Ingredients:

1 kg mutton, cubed, washed

4 cloves

2 elaichi

1 cinnamon stick

1 bay leaf

2 large onions, finely chopped

5-6 green chillies, slit

1 1/2 tbsps ginger garlic paste

1 large tomato, chopped

salt to taste

1 1/2 tbsps oil

1 1/2 tbsps ghee

3/4 tsp garam masala pwd

chopped cilantro leaves for garnish

For marinade:

2 tsps red chilli pwd (adjust)

1 1/4 tbsp coriander pwd

3/4 tsp cumin pwd

1/2 tsp turmeric powder

1 1/2 cups thick yogurt/curd

Make a paste

1 1/2 tbsp poppy seeds, dry roast for 4 mts, soak in water for 10 mts

4 tbsps grated fresh coconut

4 cashew nuts, soak in little water or milk (optional)

1 Add the curd, red chilli pwd, turmeric pwd, coriander pwd, cumin pwd, half of the ginger garlic paste to the washed mutton. Keep aside the marinated mutton for 30-40 mts.
2 Heat oil and ghee in a heavy bottomed vessel, add whole spices and bay leaf and fry for few secs. Add the chopped onions and fry till transparent. Add the green chillis and remaining ginger-garlic paste and saute for 3 mts. Add the chopped tomatoes and fry for 4-5 mts.
3 Add the marinated mutton and cook over medium heat with lid till the water from the meat and yogurt is almost absorbed. Check in between and stir.
4 Add the poppy seeds-coconut paste and salt to the mutton and mix well. Cover and cook for 4-5 mts. Add 3 cups of water and salt. Cook with lid on simmer till the mutton is tender and the gravy thickens. Add garam masala pwd and garnish with chopped coriander leaves. Turn off heat.
5 Serve with pulao, biryani, coconut rice or rotis.

Note:

The cooking time will depend on the quality of mutton used. If its tough meat, it takes longer to cook.

Crunch Critters on Khao Sarn

The sound of leaves crunching under children’s busied feet as they hustle down the darkened Oak Park sidewalks. Candy bags clutched tightly in little fingers, as goblins, ghouls, and little witches make their way from one warmly lit porch step to the next. A small, ghost white, little girl with midnight black hair and a tinfoil tiara skips down the street happily humming the bars to “Monster Mash”. Is this some idyllic scene from a Disney movie or a memory from my own childhood? Well dear readers (reader count=eight, and <gulp> a couple hundred lurkers) to be honest I’m not quite certain myself, and what I have found in my educational research on the workings of the human mind leads me to believe that our memory constructs itself continuously and creatively. That being said, the point is still clear…I have always had a love of all things Halloween. The ritual of pumpkin carving, and roasting the seeds after, the creative construction of costumes, the spooky stories, and the mayhem and mischief in the air—this is Halloween.

Some years have been better than others. As an adult I’ve made many memories that will be carried in my heart for years to come. In fact when it comes to decadence, debauchery, and dancing I have been thrice blessed on the devil’s nights. However, it is quite possible that last night’s festivities will be carried with me far into the future. The Thai have a saying that I am learning to live with, and quite possibly love. “Mai pen rai” they say, or “never mind”.  You see, learning to go with the flow is most definitely one of my biggest lessons here. Going into the weekend I had already let go of my desire for something that would make me feel a little less homesick. I had found a night here that would be comparable to a fabulous evening of maudlin marauding back in my hometown of Atlanta, but had opted to join the group’s activities and head down to

Khao Sarn Road

instead.

Khao Sarn Road

is the backpacker’s destination in Bangkok. Any night of the week it is crammed with vendor’s stalls filled with funky beach wear, Asian printed t-shirts, and a various assortment of Thai dishes and delicacies. However, on Halloween night it was a crazy kaleidoscope of chaos. A small troupe of traveling teachers and I made our way from the local Bangkok neighborhood that I now call home down to Khao Sarn. A short cab ride later, and the traffic came to a jumbled stand still. We hopped out of the taxi and picked our way around vendor’s venues and snack stalls. The thundering noise of the crowd filled our ears, and the glow of a lit platform adorned with deejay and psychedelic screen illuminated our path. This was Halloween on Bangkok’s busy city streets.

A sea of faces greeted us upon arrival. Needless to say it was only a few moments in when we lost one of our numbers who went rushing off after familiar faces. Khao Sarn is packed with bars, and on this particular night the crowds were so chaotic that they came spilling out onto the streets, and it became nearly impossible to differentiate between street traffic and busied bar patrons. Our group gladly took in all of the sights and smells. It would have been impossible not to get caught up in the madness of it all. Let’s just say much fun was being had by all, and the vibe just spread. There were definitely some differences between the Thai costumes and the farang costumes. The majority of the Thai seemed to revel in all things spooky, scary, and sticky, whereas the farang took this night as an opportunity to come silly, slutty, or stupefied. This was easy to do with some of the costumes we saw that night.

Point taken? Now, I have promised you all culinary curiosities, and I promise to not disappoint. Bangkok, just like any other town has it’s standard bar food. Late night, naughty noise-makers need nourishment (say that three times fast). However, in Bangkok there is always an adventure to be had. As one of my new dear friends likes to say, “Ahhhh, Thailand…how strange you are sometimes.” It was not long before we found a snack cart that would make Andrew Zimmern salivate. There it was, a vision of glowing beetles, bugs, and scorpions.

Did you think I was joking? I am sad to report that this night was not the night I would try one of the crunchy critters. Calm down! I have a year, it may happen yet. Instead, I opted for a treat that I had heard several people describe with stars in their eyes. After experiencing it myself, I can see why. I have included a video clip that shows the making of this Thai treat for your viewing pleasure. I promise that the next post will include a recipe. Until then…

Enjoy,

The Epicurious Gypsy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFb9hn_FcSQ